Home ยป Blog ยป Home Improvement

Cheapest and Easiest DIY Board and Batten Guide

8 simple steps to take the guess work out of building cheap board and batten walls and wainscoting to add character and timeless detail to plain walls.

Cheapest and Easiest DIY Board and Batten - 8 simple steps to take the guess work out of building cheap board and batten to add character and timeless detail to plain walls.  

Did you ever read that book as a kid? “If You Give a Mouse a Cookie”? And the whole book is about this domino effect of a little mouse who keeps discovering more things he wants?

Well, there’s a grown-up version.

If you give a DIYer a table makeover, she’s going to want a shiplap wall. When you give her a shiplap wall, she’ll probably ask for board and batten wainscoting. Or at least, that’s how the story goes around here.

foyer before board and batten

UPDATE: See Part Two of the DIY Board and Batten here for the full reveal.

What is Board and Batten?

Board and batten is a type of wall treatment or interior molding that uses strips of wood boards nailed vertically side-by-side with a horizontal strip of wood called a “batten” placed over the seams. 

The end result creates shadows and dimension that adds character to plain walls. 

Board and batten is often used on exterior siding, fences, and furniture, but for the DIY tutorial in this post, we’re using it to make board and batten wainscoting. 

It’s the perfect wall treatment to add character to any room: hallways, entryways, bathrooms, bedrooms, dining rooms, anywhere that deserves an aesthetic upgrade. 

Even better news: It will be in style for a long time because it works for a variety of home styles and creates visual interest that is timeless. 

Here is a gender neutral nursery makeover we did for a family member of ours featuring a board and batten accent wall.

board and batten wainscoting in a nursery

What Kind of Wood is Used for Board and Batten?

The wood type we chose for our DIY board and batten wall treatment is what helped us achieve the look on a super tight budget! Most builders use MDF or pine trim strips for board and batten.

But we discovered by using pine furring strips instead, it cost less than half of the traditional method! To be fair, there is a little more time and work involved since you do have to fill knots and sand out some of the imperfections, but it’s a great way to get the look for less.

pine furring strips

Just make sure you only use wood in non-humid rooms. For wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms, PVC is a better choice.

Tip: When selecting wood pieces for this project at the hardware store, look at the end and stare down the edge of each wood strip to make sure they’re not warped.

finished board and batten wainscoting in an entryway

Another money saving trick that’s a good idea to create a batten board wall for less than the traditional method is to use lattice strips! You can even make it without needing a single power tool. This batten look tutorial below just skips the horizontal boards to place straight cut strips on the entire wall. 

Tutorial: Inexpensive DIY batten board wall with lattice strips 

DIY batten board wall using lattice strips

If you prefer a softer, more traditional look, you can round out your boards with the addition of a panel cap molding like we did on this board and batten style DIY grid wall behind our bed.

Tutorial: DIY Grid Wall Accent

black-master-bedroom-makeover with DIY batten board grid wall accent

Why Board and Batten is a Perfect Choice to Brighten Hallways

Robert and I agreed our hallway needed a little help. This space had no natural light, and it really felt like a cave. The dark paint I blindly chose on moving day didn’t really help matters.

If you have a dark hallway with no natural light, board batten is especially great at brightening those dark tunnel-like spots in the house. And it adds TONS of character for not a lot of money! It just looks expensive.

Installing wainscotting isn’t that hard; it’s just tedious. But the end result is worth it.

hallway before

How to Install the Cheapest and Easiest DIY Board and Batten

A 1x4x8 furring strip costs about $2.00 at most hardware stores (at the time of this post’s publishing). That’s 70% cheaper than MDF boards. And they’re solid and ready to put up.

It was still quite a tedious process to install board and batten, but it eliminated some extra steps on the front end. And I love how the whole project turned out. (And at least we didn’t have to spend time ripping MDF.)


Note: We have smooth walls, which helps make this process cheaper. If you have textured walls though, you will need to use this MDF paneling between battens.

Our hallway is very long, and we still ended up staying under our $100 budget (not counting the tools we already own – but you can rent tools from the hardware store to stay within a reasonable budget if needed). Furring strips are da bomb diggity, y’all!


1. Place the Top Boards

We placed the boards (the horizontal 1x4s) at 65″ on our walls checking that it was perfectly level, with the top of the 1×4 at the 65″ mark from the top of our existing baseboard.

(I tried my best to remember to take pictures as we worked but this was definitely a two person job.)

Tip: You can choose to build your board and batten wainscoting using your existing baseboard and just miter the ends of the vertical boards to sit on top of the baseboard.

Or you can remove your existing baseboard to replace with a board the same width as the top board so the wainscoting is balanced at the top and bottom. In hindsight, I wish we had done this.

checking board to be sure its level

2. Nail the Top Boards

Once level and at the height mark you want, nail each board into studs to attach it to the wall. This is where that stud finder can really come in handy. Our nail gun wouldn’t work with 2″ finishing nails so we had to resort to the good ol’ hammer method. Womp womp.

The good news: It’s proof you can handle this project with not a lot of power tools if you don’t own them already. 

It took much longer this way but we felt better that with longer nails, the boards were more secure.

We had to measure each section of wall for some of the boards and cut with a circular saw for the more narrow spaces.

Tip: To make the boards very permanent, apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the board before nailing it into place on the drywall.

To attach the board to the drywall so it causes minimal damage later, in case you ever want to take it down, apply the finish nailer at a 45 degree angle against the board. Then, place the following brad nail in the opposite direction. This will allow board and batten strips to stay flush against the drywall but can still be removed later. 

nailing board to wall to start board and batten

Progress! And we were blissfully unaware that this was the beginning of a long 3 days. Just warning ya.

adding horizontal board to start board and batten

3. Measure and Cut Vertical Battens

Then, we got to measuring and cutting our battens (the vertical 1x4s). Each one was around 61.5″ long. We measured for each batten individually from the top of our existing baseboard because we wanted as snug of a fit as possible.

measuring height for board and batten

4. Cut Around Obstacles

We had to work around some tricky areas like our security system keypad, outlets, and light switches. For the keypad, we had to cut a board into two parts.

fit a batten around a wall obstacle

Robert held up vertical boards against the keypad to mark where to cut with his circular saw.

measure and cut batten to fit around wall obstacles

For boards that were only partially intersecting light switches and outlets, we held the board in place next to it, marked, and cut the section out with our jigsaw. It’s not ideal, but sometimes there’s no other choice than to work around them. 

notch out light switches with a jigsaw

5. Nail Battens to Studs

The trickiest part of all though was figuring out how to stay consistent with our spacing battens. And we didn’t want to nail them to just drywall for fear that it could really cause some drama later. (Like a monkey kid who decides to yank on them…you just never know.)

Tip:  Nail your battens to studs. They should (hopefully) already be evenly spaced, and it will make the battens more secure.

anchor battens on studs

By the way, for 90% of the projects you see on this blog, Lola is sitting right beside us supervising our every move. The other 10%, she’s usually snoring on the couch.

One guess who put the Dallas Cowboys jersey on her (and it just might be the guy wearing the Dallas hat there). She’s the only wacko dog I’ve ever known who actually likes wearing clothes.

nailing battens to wall

Whew! Getting there. That stud trick works!

plain board and batten in a hallway without a shelf

I sort of spaced out on taking pictures at this point because I was so ready to have this madness finished.

6. (Optional) Add A Second Board 12″ Below the Top Board

We measured each space between the battens for our second horizontal board. Most were 12″ apart, give or take a few millimeters. We left a 12″ space between the bottom of the top board and top of the second board.

7. (Optional) Add a Shelf Detail to the Top Horizontal Board

To finish it off, we nailed a 1×2 board flat on top like a little shelf. That one detail made it look really complete. You can make your top ledge a little deeper to create a picture ledge, if you choose.

adding board and batten wainscoting to a dark hallway with a shelf detail

8. Caulk Gaps and Wood Fill Knots and Nail Holes

To fill gaps, run a bead of caulk along each edge where the wood boards meet the wall.

We caulked all seams and board edges and wood filled knots and nail holes for longer than I care to remember. Once it was all dry, we sanded the dried wood filler until smooth.

board and batten before caulking

I had no idea before we tackled this project ourselves just how much work it entailed.

Maybe if we’d attempted a smaller space first it wouldn’t have been so overwhelming, but Robert and I are so happy with how it’s turned out. Totally worth it.

installing board and batten wainscoting before painting

UPDATE:   See the final board and batten reveal here!

board and batten wainscoting in a hallway

I would love to rip out this carpet one day to put down hardwood floors to go with this pretty wainscoting, but progress is progress. This hallway is already a huge improvement from before.

DIY Board and Batten for Under $100

Have you ever attempted board and batten in your house before? Or any other architectural DIYs that worked wonders in a room? Tell me all about it!

Frequently Asked Questions

Can this board and batten method work on textured walls?

You cannot use this exact method on textured walls, but you can adapt it by using 1/8″ thin plywood paneling on the wall prior to attaching your boards to create a smooth finish.

Is board and batten a trend?

Not at all! It’s a classic architectural detail in many traditional and modern homes alike that stands the test of time. Board and batten is often seen as an added bonus to potential home buyers.

How tall should board and batten be?

There’s a lot of flexibility in how high board and batten should be. It should be at least 4′ high. But you can also install floor to ceiling board and batten wall if you prefer. Ours was approximately 6′ high (with 9′ ceilings).

What should I do so battens don’t stick out from existing baseboards?

You can rip the baseboards off completely and run a board in its place to match the thickness of the battens. Or you can cut 45 degree angles the bottom of the battens with a miter saw to meet the existing baseboards.

Wall Molding DIY Project Ideas

8 DIY-able Wall Molding Ideas to Add Character to Your Home

diy wall molding ideas

Easy DIY Vertical Shiplap Wainscoting

vertical shiplap wainscoting

DIY Traditional Grid Molding Focal Wall

Inexpensive DIY Batten Wall Using Lattice Strips

sign off

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


  1. This looks absolutely great! I have been wanting to do this to my walls for years now, but because my walls are textured, I have been reluctant to do it. (Plus, I am not very handy and am afraid I would just make a mess of things.) Do you have any suggestions or blog post referrals as to how one would go about applying board and batten to textured walls? I have been tempted to just go ahead and do it the way you did it, but wonder if it would just end up looking kind of half-baked with the textured wall showing through.

    Also, our house has rounded corners (I dislike these for so many reasons) – do you think it would be best not to attempt putting B&B around the corners? Our baseboards already look wonky with the mitered cut to go around the corner – I imagine trying to put B&B around a rounded corner might get a bit complicated.

    Thanks a lot!

    1. Oh, that is tricky with the textured walls and rounded corners. Yours would be more expensive to do since you would need to put plywood in the spaces between the battens. Here’s a tutorial on how to do it on textured walls: http://www.itsoverflowing.com/2012/04/entry-room-board-and-batten-mud-room/ And here’s a tutorial for how to do it on rounded corners: http://thecontractorchronicles.com/2014/03/17/install-board-batten/ It’s still possible though!

      1. Lauren, thanks for the links! I am so eager to try this. I do have a bathroom that is not textured, and I think I’ll give it a go in there first before trying something more involved.


        1. Kaille,
          We installed board and batten on our textured walls and it looks awesome. We have what I would consider light texture. We didn’t cover the walls with plywood or hardboard. The texture is noticeable between the boards but I still love it. I’d say as long as your walls aren’t a heavy texture, you would be fine. Authentic, no, but for me it’s still a beautiful, economical way to add interest to a wall.

  2. Thank you for the tutorial! Your direction will be very helpful when I do a version of this in my family room. I do have a couple questions. How did you meet the baseboards with the bottom of the batten? The top of my baseboards are angled downward and I believe yours are as well. Did you leave a gap where the two meet or did you angle the bottom of your batten?


    1. Hi Lindsey! Glad it could help! Our original plan was to angle the bottom, but our miter saw gave up on us, so we ended up just putting them as-is up against our baseboards. You can choose whatever angle you’d like though if you want to go that route.

  3. Love the ship lap, and the board and batten.
    My question to you is can I have a ship lap wall ,close to (not touching ) board and batten? I love both. Usually,I’m pretty confident in my decor abilities,this one has me questioning myself.

    1. I had the exact same issue! And I finally just decided it’s my house and if I want shiplap and board and batten close to each other, I’m going to do it. We have shiplap in our foyer and the board and batten in our hallway right beside it, and I love how it looks. Go for it. ๐Ÿ˜‰

  4. So I am looking at doing this in our nursery, my question is, what do you do at the base of the vertical boards where they meet your trim? It looks like your baseboard trim is similar to mine in where it is narrower at the top so the vertical board would hang out over the baseboard. (hope that makes sense) I want to avoid it looking goofy and having to replace all of my baseboards.

    1. Hi Elizabeth! You can just cut the bottom of the battens (the vertical boards) with a miter saw at an angle to meet up with your existing baseboard. I hope that makes sense.

  5. Love what you did. I’m going to do my bathroom but am wondering: is board and batten ALWAYS done in white? That seems to be the only thing I find in my searching. I’m torn between going white or perhaps a mauve if that isn’t going against “the rules”. Thanks.

    1. Not at all! I’ve seen gray, navy, and red before too. The rules are meant to be broken anyway, right? ๐Ÿ˜‰